Tag : tutorial

17 posts

Since I was starting a new journal I thought I’d share with you my process for prepping the book.  First find yourself an old book that appeals to you. For me it was the size of this book. Not too small or too big… Just call me Goldilocks.journal prep5

Look inside to see what kind of binding you have.journal prep1

This inside cover gave me a really good indication that I had a sewn binding but I had to make sure.journal prep4

Yep…sewn binding. Perfect! Now we’re ready for the thinning of pages without leaving chunks of torn pages along the inner spine. Removing pages reduces bulk since the altering of a book whether journal style or a themed altered book adds lots of bulk!

I find the center of each signature (as seen in the above photo) and remove the page from each side.journal prep3Like this. I go back and carefully pick out all of the torn fragments. It will appear as if nothing has changed until you look at the page numbers. You’ll have a definite gap which would make reading the story a real challenge at this point.

I remove at least one page from each signature, sometimes more. You can always go back and remove more. journal prep7

Here you can see the gaps along the spine and how the book is more narrow going toward the outer edge. This is exactly what you want. journal prep8

You have a nice stack of pages for your altering pleasure when you are done.

SecondlookToday for Second on the 2nd, I’m going to share with you today a post from 4 yrs ago about a technique that I simply love.

Without further ado here is the post from December 2010…

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 I am totally hooked on this “new to me”  technique. I’ve seen it in a magazine, You Tube, blogs etc. Trust me…this technique has been around the block a time or two. Of course, I am super late in actually trying it but I had said I wouldn’t buy any new art supplies. Well…technically I didn’t buy a new art supply, I bought a concentrated cleaner. That counts right!?!? Anyway…Since not everyone on the planet has read about it I’ll tell you what I did. It is so simple and has such cool results.  A word of caution…this will be messy…protect your surfaces, hands and clothing.20101209_4757

First you take the CitroSolv concentrate full strength and pour a bit into a small container. I used a foam brush to apply it directly to the front and back of the National Geographic pages I wanted to use.  The more ink on the  pages the better. After slathering on the CitroSolv to as many pages as you’d like…close the magazine and walk away for about 20 mins or so. When you come back…put on a glove and start opening the pages…they will likely fall right from the magazine as the CitroSolv seems to un-glue the binding as well.20101209_4755

I hung my pages to dry with clothes pins overnight. I painted a few pages with CitroSolv before going to bed to see if the effect would be any different. The effect seemed a little more “muddy” to me rather than having the cool bubble effect. Still totally usable papers…just different. 20101209_4747These are some of my favorites but as you can see below…I ended up with a bunch of fun papers to play with.  20101209_4754

When we got the materials for our retreat they said that we’d be doing a tie dye project so we brought our pre-washed white shirts along.  I had anticipated standard tie dye…rubber bands, string and dipping in dye baths or squirt bottles.

tie dyeWhen we got to the building we found out that it was tie dye with Sharpie Markers and rubbing alcohol. I’ve wanted to try this technique since Elizabeth blogged about it. Of course, there are always so many techniques and so little time.

It’s a very simple process…you just make dots. Seriously. You can create what ever you want.  I’m sure you could draw as well but dragging the marker on the material isn’t always the easiest.We had a piece of cardboard between the layers of the shirt so it wouldn’t bleed through to the back.

We did learn that certain colors of Sharpies spread more than others. Not sure why. Also the bigger the dot…the more it spreads. As well as the more alcohol you put on the further is spreads.

sharpie tie dye

Fun and much less messy process than dye baths.

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I also wanted to say “thank you” once again to Patty for the wonderful birthday surprise. Look at the sweet package of goodies I came home to on Sunday.birthday gift

Patty was kind enough to share some of her “new” quilt pieces with me and one of her lovely looking and smelling lavender wands.

t-shirt

First of all, I have to admit that this is not my original idea. I’ve seen many versions of this on Pinterest.    box pleat

But after going through the kids clothes and coming up with 2+ garbage bags full to pass along to a friend, it inspired me to keep a couple school shirts for this project.

This project couldn’t be an easier. I turned the shirt inside out then stitched the bottom closed.  Next was the box pleat to create a flat bottom. Basically you sew perpendicular to the bottom seam at each corner. You end up with a triangle of fabric that is not usable bag space. Gosh, I think I’m making that more complicated than it really is!! Here’s a link that shows the process if I just confused you.

Anyway…then I turned the shirt back right side out and cut off the sleeves and made a scoop cut at the neckline. No pattern just start cutting. We all know what a plastic handle bag from the grocery or discount store looks like….that’s what you are going for in shape.

All in all, not too shabby for a few minutes work. It saved a couple of shirts from the rag pile since  they’d likely never be worn again.

Little J claimed the lime green one as soon as she returned home. It was her shirt to begin with so now it will continue to serve her in a different capacity.

While cleaning out my closet this week, I discovered this chartreuse t-shirt. It was destined to be donated  since I just couldn’t get used to the color on me.
I had seen a tutorial on Pinterest for a fringed t-shirt scarf so I figure…why not try it.

So back to my project. I cut the shirt below the arms then cut fringe about half way up the shirt.
I then tugged on each fringe until it stretched nicely giving it nice texture and movement.
And the completed scarf…
I think I can handle a splash of chartreuse much better than a whole shirt of it.
Sorry that each of my photos are a different hue. The actual color is somewhere in between this photo and the previous one.  Bad photo day for me and Photoshop can only do so much.

I am totally hooked on this “new to me”  technique. I’ve seen it in a magazine, You Tube, blogs etc. Trust me…this technique has been around the block a time or two. Of course, I am super late in actually trying it but I had said I wouldn’t buy any new art supplies. Well…technically I didn’t buy a new art supply, I bought a concentrated cleaner. That counts right!?!?

Anyway…Since not everyone on the planet has read about it I’ll tell you what I did. It is so simple and has such cool results.  A word of caution…this will be messy…protect your surfaces, hands and clothing.

First you take the CitroSolv concentrate full strength and pour a bit into a small container. I used a foam brush to apply it directly to the front and back of the National Geographic pages I wanted to use.  The more ink on the  pages the better. After slathering on the CitroSolv to as many pages as you’d like…close the magazine and walk away for about 20 mins or so. When you come back…put on a glove and start opening the pages…they will likely fall right from the magazine as the CitroSolv seems to un-glue the binding as well.

I hung my pages to dry with clothes pins overnight.

I painted a few pages with CitroSolv before going to bed to see if the effect would be any different. The effect seemed a little more “muddy” to me rather than having the cool bubble effect. Still totally usable papers…just different.

These are some of my favorites but as you can see below…I ended up with a bunch of fun papers to play with.

As requested by a few members of ABC I’ve taken pictures along the process of making my latest ATC book. I’ll do my best to explain the steps. Please click on the pictures for a better view of any step.

These are the supplies you’ll need as well as some string or fiber and a large eye needle for the binding process as you’ll see later.

After being properly scolded by Elizabeth, here is the supply list:

  • book large enough to fit your ATC’s
  • x-acto knife or other cutting blade
  • gesso
  • pencil
  • ruler
  • cardstock
  • cutting system such as guillotine or fiskars rotary cutter
  • white glue or gel medium
  • paint
  • paint brush
  • tissue paper or dress pattern(optional)
  • rubber stamps(optional)
  • ink pads(optional)
  • Japanese screw punch or awl
  • thread or fibers for binding
  • large needle
  • decorative beads(optional)
  • something to protect your work surface
The first step is to remove the text block from the cover. To do this you carefully cut along the spine on each side of the text block being careful not to cut through the cover. I used a glued in binding book so I had to use a bit of muscle to separate the glued in block after cutting. I reinforced the spine with a strip of cereal box cardboard adhered with gel medium although I’m sure white glue would work as well.

Next I coated both sides of the cover with gesso and set aside to dry.

In the meantime I measured the text block to determine the size of the cardstock that I’d be cutting.

For my book, I cut 16 pieces to 3.75″ x 10″. This will eventually yield 4 signatures but now I’m getting ahead of myself.

My next step is purely personal preference. I randomly stamped both side of my pages for visual interest.

After folding in half, I used a bone folder (forgot that in the supply photo as well) to make a nice sharp fold.

Completed pages ready to be gathered into signatures.

I used 4 pages for each of the 4 signatures…boy, that was a lot of fours!

At this point the gesso on the cover had dried and I was ready to make them pretty. I love using dress patterns for texture. As an added bonus it acts as a reinforcement. I simple spread out white glue and pat the pattern tissue gently down then set aside to dry.

After it dried, I painted the inside.

Used the same technique on the outside with scraps of pattern tissue.

And again painted and set aside to dry.

While the cover was drying, I prepped the signatures for binding. I made a template from scrap cardstock as my guide for hole punching.

I used a Japanese screw punch for my holes. You could also use an awl. You just don’t want the holes too big. I’m using the smallest bit my screw punch came with. BTW-the hole gets plugged when cutting through multiple layers. I keep a needle near by to dig out the tiny little circles plugging the punch.
I used my guide to make the holes in the book binding as well.

And punched 4 sets of 3 holes in the binding.
I started with an 18 in fiber on a large needle in the center hole from the inside of the signature leaving yourself a 4 inch tail.

Go through the outside of the book cover, slip in a bead then go back through the top hole in the cover and signature.
Next go back through the center hole to the outside, slip on a bead and then go back through the remaining hole of the set.
It should then look like this. Take the needle and go under the complete flat loop then tie the loose ends tightly in a knot. You’ve just completed your first signature. Go back and do it 3 more times.

The way I do the pamphlet stitch binding isn’t exactly that way the tutorials out there would have you do it but it’s the way I do. I’d encourage you to do a search and check out the other techniques if mine seems unclear. There are video tutorials out there as well.

Completed book outside..in poor light.

Completed book inside.

A few end notes…

  • I made sure my book was large enough to accommodate ATC’s in portrait and landscape orientation.
  • Be sure to leave at least 1/8 space between the 2 sections of pages so they actually turn.
  • Keep in mind that you’ll the book will become twice it’s size or more once the ATC’s are loaded. I use photos corners to mount my ATC’s.
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